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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2022 17:33:07 GMT -6
Here are few pictures of the Tung oil Finish after I put on some paste wax.
I think the paste wax put it over the top. A little hard to use but so worth it!
I got two coats of the Tung oil Finish on the fret board and peg head before I had to stop for the day. I will finish that up tomorrow. After that I will level the frets, place the bridge, and make the nut for it. No, I don't think all that will happen in a day. But ya never know! LOL! I'll be doing other videos as I go along.
I am so glad that you all enjoyed the Tung Oil Finish videos. I was glad I was able to do them.
It wont be long before I do a sound video of the guitar. LOL! Never though I would be saying that! EB
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Post by dnic on Mar 2, 2022 19:10:39 GMT -6
Watched over on the YouTubes. Very nice results. I've got some Tung oil in my future.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2022 20:07:19 GMT -6
Watched over on the YouTubes. Very nice results. I've got some Tung oil in my future. Thanks Dane! It is super forgiving as well. The thing I did not say in the videos is that it is easy to take off if you don't like it. Lacquer thinner will take it off. A little messy but it does take it off fairly easy.
EB
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Post by antares on Mar 3, 2022 3:10:54 GMT -6
I think you said that it has to sink into the grain so you need to start with a clean sheet? I suppose that much like avoiding getting WD40 on car paintwork because you'll never be able to paint properly again without stripping to bare metal, so it ought to be with Tung Oil that has sunk into the grain- you can remove what's on the top and start again, but it's a one way street once you've started with Tung Oil? I don't see that as any disadvantage though given the excellent results without all the spraying equipment requirements and fume handling problems, not to mention the extended cure periods with paints and lacquers. I rattle-canned a Warmoth maple Tele neck and although I was more than just reasonably successful, after seeing this I won't trouble to do that again. Great result Eddie.
でつ e&oe ...
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Post by dnic on Mar 3, 2022 8:19:15 GMT -6
Watched over on the YouTubes. Very nice results. I've got some Tung oil in my future. Thanks Dane! It is super forgiving as well. The thing I did not say in the videos is that it is easy to take off if you don't like it. Lacquer thinner will take it off. A little messy but it does take it off fairly easy.
EB
Just for clarification, you can strip tung oil with lacquer thinner? Even after it's cured?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2022 8:28:15 GMT -6
I think you said that it has to sink into the grain so you need to start with a clean sheet? I suppose that much like avoiding getting WD40 on car paintwork because you'll never be able to paint properly again without stripping to bare metal, so it ought to be with Tung Oil that has sunk into the grain- you can remove what's on the top and start again, but it's a one way street once you've started with Tung Oil? I don't see that as any disadvantage though given the excellent results without all the spraying equipment requirements and fume handling problems, not to mention the extended cure periods with paints and lacquers. I rattle-canned a Warmoth maple Tele neck and although I was more than just reasonably successful, after seeing this I won't trouble to do that again. Great result Eddie. でつ e&oe ...It really does not matter on what was used as a finish when it comes to removing it. They all are a lot of work to get it back down to bare wood again.
Yes I have used so many products over the years. Here are some;
Lacquer: rub on, spry can. and spray gun... I have found on this finish be it clear or paint, It need to cure at least 6 to 8 weeks. I will let it cure longer than that. I found the longer the better before messing with it.
Acrylic Lacquer: Spray can, and spray gun... It too takes a long cure time. The problem I ran into with it sometimes it will soften up again if it is exposed to any king of heat. I have one guitar right now that I used this on that I will someday redo because the finish has not dried and has all kinds of marks in the finish because once it get a little warm the stuff softens up. I did that guitar a long time ago.
Poly: Spray can and rub on. Had some good luck with it. This is what I used on the Guitar Attack build. I had to wait for 6 weeks or so before I could color sand it out and buff it. But it was worth it.
Tru oil: rub on... Not a fan of it. It is super thin takes a lot to get anywhere with it. For me I didn't like the way it felt or went on to the guitar. Takes a lot more coats than I was let to believe after watching some videos on it. I am glad that many out there have good results from it. But it did not work out for me. I tried it out on two guitars. The second time I would up striping it off and using Tung oil Finish.
Tung oil Finish: rub on... Again this is not a true (tung oil) But as far as a rub on finish I think it is king! I would not use pure tung oil on my guitars. Why? because it is pure oil. It will need to be reapplied over time. And you will not get that high gloss from it. Tung Oil Finish I think had gotten a bad rap from guitar builders. I made these videos to show it is a good product. As you all have seen in my videos I get some awesome results!
OK forward on to the rest of the build/ EB
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Post by antares on Mar 3, 2022 11:10:02 GMT -6
Thanks for that heads-up. I just read and heard "Tung Oil" and wasn't aware of the distinction between that and Tung Oil Finish. That snippet could well have saved me a minor disaster. Up thumbs again.
でつ e&oe ...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2022 16:17:26 GMT -6
Well, if I didn't have bad luck I would no luck at all.
I was so happy to get as far as I have on this build. But I had two more set backs.
One;
I cannot find the string Ferrules to save me. I don't what the heck I did with them. So, I ordered some more. They should be here by March 11th.
Two; Went to mount the bridge and broke the screws off down in the wood. I have not had this happen in many years. I wound up having to cut the leather around the holes I drilled. Then I used a bigger metal carbide bit to drill out the broken screws. I then filled in the holes by drilling out a bigger hole so I could use wooden dowels to fill in. I cut them to the same height as the leather. I then filled in where I cut the leather out with epoxy. Once the epoxy has cured I'll redrill the holes and use some kind of other screws to mount the bridge. The bad thing was when one of the screw broke off the electric screwdriver hit the leather. So, now I have another spot to see if I can cover up. Just was not my day!
I did get the antler nut cut today. Still shaping it and marking out where the string slots will go. But at least so far it's looking good.
Tomorrow I'll try and get the bridge in place, and hope I can get the string through holes drilled. Then I'll finish up the Tung oil Finish on the fret board and if there is enough time left in the day I can get the fret leveled off. But that may have to wait until later. I can still make the pickup ring and get the pickups in, the jack put in as well as the volume pots. I can get all that done while waiting on the new parts. Really bugs me in what I did with them parts. Hum...
Oh I guess now I don't have to worry about putting in screws or dowels to help stabilize the bridge on the leather. LOL! Boy what a day!
EB
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Post by dnic on Mar 3, 2022 19:13:40 GMT -6
Yes, awesome. Now you have dowels flush with the leather.
For me, only talking about me. I've used drill drivers on construction sites. Set literally hundreds of doors and door hardware. Built miles of cabinets and run in thousands of screws with a drill and screw driver tip. But I have not once used a power drill to drive screws into a guitar. New or old mine or someone else's. Just not gonna take a chance on slipping off the screw or buggering up the screw head. If you've seen my videos you have seen me even hold the tip of the screwdriver with one hand while turning it with the other. I cringe every time I see someone power drive a screw in, in a video.
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Post by antares on Mar 4, 2022 4:10:54 GMT -6
Oh Eddie do I ever feel for ya.
When I was in aerospace (making aircraft galleys) "pump action" screwdrivers ("Stanley") were banned because if you slipped off the bit would go straight through the honeycombe glass fibre panels. They did go over to using powered drivers (looked like pistol drills but weren't) but these had to be regulated by torque setting checks under the calibration scheme. That said, I didn't use them because I'd already gone across to Q.A. by then. Breaking off taps in aluminium blocks was a major risk at all times. Here I go again Mate! I broke off a 6-32 UNC tap in a SAAB 2000 galley floor attachment block, a 1.00" thick block some 6.00" square that went out sideways around 6.00" above the aircraft floor water line. I chain drilled around it with a 1/16" twist drill and set to with a hammer and "pointed implement" (a scribe I think.) I ended up with a hole over 1/2" in diameter and we had to make a 1.00" threaded aluminium plug to fill the hole which I opened up and threaded 1.00". We also had to get the senior stress engineer down who had to create a customised "Repair Scheme" because it was an aircraft interface point. So yeah- I feel for ya big time. It wouldn't be so bad if that was the only incident, but it was far from an isolated thing. That was just an extreme example.
Like Dane, I have power drivers and pistol drills that are speed adjustabletoo, but I wouldn't waggle one anywhere near a guitar, and certainly not on a slotted head fastener. At work we never used slotted fasteners, nearly always Philips head, but also lots of Cap Head (Allen key) "Hex Head" and very rarely "Tri-Wings". We never used Torx in aerospace but I guess other companies did?
Don't give up. The Eagle will fly again.
でつ e&oe ...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2022 7:20:54 GMT -6
My problem these days is my hands. I am getting to where I can hardly turn a screw driver. But the screws didn’t brake going in. They broke coming out. I also don’t go full on using my drill for putting in the screws or taking them out. But I have broken screws off before by screwing in with a screw driver. But I do think the problem was two things. One is the wood. I am not joking, the wood is is super hard. I have never worked with wood this hard. Two, the metals that are used to make screws is junk. Screws today are not the same as they where years ago. I have seen a big change in the way screws are made. Even decking screws are not as good as they once were. I have had a lot of problems with screws I have bought in the last few years. Even nuts and bolts. The metals have gotten softer or the metals they are using is not as good as they use to use in making them. But again I will over come this set back. I won’t be working on it today. I have a couple of doctors appointments I have to go to. By the time they get done messing with me I won’t feel like working it. I may take the weekend off from doing much of anything. Not doing good again. If it’s not the weather it’s my body going through stuff. EB
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Post by dnic on Mar 4, 2022 8:28:40 GMT -6
I know we're all pulling for you Eddie. I pray that all your doctor visits go well. I know I've said it before it doesn't hurt to take a little time off.
Steve, that push twist screwdriver. Stanley" was trade named Yankee over here. Also made by Stanley. Funny how another invention can destroy a current one. I mean of course the cordless drill driver.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2022 13:53:04 GMT -6
I am done with the doctors today. My doctor upped the dosage to one of my meds. (for pain) Gave me some new meds to try for other things. I'll see how things go once I get started on the new meds.
Talked over with the wife. Think I will take off this weekend form doing anything on the build. I really need to start going through stuff and getting rid of some things. That is what I'll be doing this weekend.
Starting on Monday, I hope to get back on the build. But I may have to wait until my Meds kick in and my body gets use to it. It sometimes takes me a few days to bounce back from the meds.
I did get the nut made yesterday. I still need to finish up the Tung Oil Finish on the fret board. Then I'll need to level the frets and dress them. I'll do that after the bridge goes on. I need to go buy a new drill bit or bits for this. I need to find some longer ones. Most of the ones I have are your normal length. I need at least one that can drill all the way through the body. So Harbor Freight here I come! LOL!
EB
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Post by antares on Mar 4, 2022 18:54:48 GMT -6
I remember my Dad calling them "Yankee" too Dane. I'd forgotten all about that.
Dane's right Eddie- everyone's routin' for ya. We want to hear the guitar too. Take your time fella. Later on you'll see it all in perspective. That's what I find anyhoo.
でつ e&oe ...
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Mar 6, 2022 9:28:47 GMT -6
Eddie -- That finish really turned out great.
Question: How long does it take to completely dry and lose its distinctive smell?
John
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