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Post by chezvoz on May 4, 2012 20:23:02 GMT -6
I was looking at the wiring diagram again and noticed something hadn't looked at before. THe master tone switch is using resistors to change the tone and not capacitors. Is that a normal way to do it? I've only seen caps.
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Post by dnic on May 4, 2012 20:45:30 GMT -6
changing the resistance will change the tone. Like the diff between 250 and 500K pots. I would for sure take advantage of the four wire pups. coil split is easy and only requires grounding the series pair. Parallel wiring is cool to but I can't tell you what to do without a diagram. www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h2v2t3w2spThis might help, though you would need to combine both diagrams. Deaf Eddies site will figure it out and draw up a diagram if you email him.
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Post by georgetd on May 4, 2012 21:11:59 GMT -6
The resisters are used in the current setup, or the diagram you posted a bit back. I see caps in the the diagram earlier. But, yeah you should be able to affect tone by changing resistance. That's the whole idea of a tone knob.
If you can tell me what you want to do, I can probably cook up a wiring diagram for you. If you can't find something someone else has cooked up anyway. Speaking of wiring diagrams, I need to draw Dane up some instructions.
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Post by chezvoz on May 4, 2012 22:01:42 GMT -6
I'm still thinking about the wiring because I only want to load all this stuff inside once. I tend to really like any pickups except full size humbuckers, so I think these mini HBs will be good. I would like to design in some tonal variation so that I will be able to find a couple of great settings. I admit that I usually play with everything wide open. I am thinking that a coil split might get noisy on this guitar as there will be no shielding, so am leaning towards parallel instead. Other than using push-pulls for a coil change, I think I'll stick with the diagram. The only variables I would consider from the basic diagram are the values of the resistors (or caps if I decided that would be better). Here's a link to sound clips of a caps comparison: www.seymourduncan.com/tonefiend/guitar/customize-your-caps/The Joe Gore Tone Fiend pages at Seymour Duncan's website are great. Enjoy!
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Post by chezvoz on May 27, 2012 14:18:11 GMT -6
I have all the parts now and have mounted them on cardboard to get the lengths right so i can wire it up. Now trying to get a color scheme that stays consistent.
Should I connect all the pot's cases and the tailpiece ground together?
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2012 14:35:43 GMT -6
You need to make a "U" shape as far as the grounding goes. Do not make a complete "O". On the pots that is. The bridge you can ground to any of the pots. I always go with the one that is close to the bridge.
EB
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Post by chezvoz on May 28, 2012 18:26:27 GMT -6
I'm really struggling with the wiring diagram on this. Could someone who knows check this to see if I'm figuring this correctly? This is a push pull vol pot and the wiring is supposed to be a series- parallel switch. Thanks
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2012 19:19:15 GMT -6
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Post by chezvoz on May 28, 2012 20:52:38 GMT -6
THanks for the link,
2 very interesting differences:
The SD white (my yellow) attaches to the other side of the jumper.
The signal from the PUSH-PULL goes to an outer lug on the SD, which I read on the stewwmac site would create a situation where turning off the vol of one pickup would turn off the other.
I thought I'd just do it and see, but I hate doing those little jumpers, especially if you have to redo them.
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2012 21:06:51 GMT -6
your welcome!
I know what you are saying about the little jumpers. Try wiring up a super Strat, the mini switches are as bad to wire up.
But any way I'll be doing this wire up on my LP copy I build sometime back. I just bought the push pulls today. EB
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Post by georgetd on May 29, 2012 18:31:08 GMT -6
It looks like it will switch between parallel and series, but looks like it will be parallel out of phase as you have it drawn to me. Start 1 connected to End 2. And End 1 connected to Start 2 connected to ground.
I just found a great site for this, and left the link at work. Figures. I'll see if I can't dig it up again.
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Post by georgetd on May 29, 2012 21:21:40 GMT -6
Here are the links I was talking about www.1728.org/guitar.htmwww.1728.org/guitar10.htmUnlike the Seymour Duncan diagrams which just say what to do, these explain why they work. Helpful if you're trying to do something that's not on Seymour Duncan's list.
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Post by chezvoz on May 30, 2012 20:55:28 GMT -6
THanks for those links, they really straightened me out. Below is from the book I was using, I got it in the 70s , when there wasn't much available.
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Post by chezvoz on Jun 5, 2012 12:26:24 GMT -6
So... I finally cleared a space on my dining room table (and head space, too) to set up everything and solder this beast up. But I seem to have lost the info on which wire is which.
No problem, I thought, I have my trusty multi-meter. I should at minimum be able to trace a signal path. But I don't get a reading on any pair of wires on either pickup.
ANy thoughts?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2012 15:36:14 GMT -6
Did you check to see if the meter is working? On mine sometimes the leads don't make a good contact at the meter. (I need to get a new one) LOL! But I have had this happen more than once when checking pickups. One time I check them and I get nothing, then the next time I get a reading. Sorry I'm not much help. Also check your battery it could be a little week. I also had that happen. Well, that's all of my 2 cents. EB
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