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Post by georgetd on Apr 15, 2012 22:21:35 GMT -6
There's something to be said about twisting the red wire along with a ground wire, it can help keep it from picking up interference. You could do the same by replacing the red wire with a shielded one (that's the way I'd do it), but twisting is traditional. That explains 1 white wire.
I think ignoring the stock wiring is the way to go, you're not trying to restore this to be perfectly stock so sticking with the stock wiring seems pointless.
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 21, 2012 18:04:37 GMT -6
georgetd - I missed your post until today I couldn't try an actual restoration on this anyway as I don't have but a few of the parts and don't know how it was wired originally. I have some questions about wiring for those of you who have done this often: The original switch in the pickup selector position is actually a 2 position switch, not a 3 position. I definitely want a 3-pos switch there for bridge, both and neck selection. Would I use a Les Paul type switch, or get one with an enclosure like the original 2-way. The original tone switches seem intact (although I have yet to test them) but I was thinking of putting 3-was in there for series, parallel and then one of those options with a cap for a 3rd tonal choice. Again, what kind of switch would be best here. I have a couple of different gauges of stranded hook-up wire. Is that good enough, or should I get solid wire? I hope to do this right and only once! Thanks. Here's what I am actually working on today: Filling holes from the odd replacement tuner.
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Post by dnic on Apr 21, 2012 18:34:27 GMT -6
Looks like the original switches were the Gibson type. So a Gibson type three position switch will work well as a pup selector. And for a multi-type tone switch the three pos. Gibson would be fine too. I'm good with a normal tone circuit that would be done with a 500K pot and a .022 cap and just dial in the tone you want. Of course if you've got lots of holes to fill you could use both types of tone circuits or throw a master volume in to plug some of the holes.
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 21, 2012 23:53:51 GMT -6
The original switch holes and the pot holes are different sizes, so I am going to use the same thing in each. There are 2 holes for switches in the upper bass bout where originally there were the tone switches - like some Gretsches. There is one hole for a pot in the upper treble bout for a master volume. In the lower treble bout there are 3 holes - 2 for pots (individual volume for each pup) and one for pickup selector switch.
So I just need to figure out how to wire that setup - and perhaps add the extra pickup tone possibility with a 3 position switch instead of a 2 position switch.
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 27, 2012 11:42:45 GMT -6
Because all the screws holes to attach the tunes were just a little out of alignment with the new set I bought, I doweled 'em. The new tuners are nickel plated ones from Guitar Fetish. The nickel ages nicely with a little pool acid. Voila! Still deciding what to do on the electronics. Turns out, the country gentleman, which I think this was trying to copy, has one tone switch,and the pickup selector in the upper bout. The switch in the lower is a signal cut switch. This crown had 2-position switches in all 3 spots. Sort of a cheap gentleman.
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Post by dnic on Apr 27, 2012 13:21:58 GMT -6
I saw pics before reading, I thought you found some old tuners. That pool acid works nicely.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2012 13:32:24 GMT -6
That is cool! looks like they were on there since the guitar was new! Great way to age them.
EB
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 27, 2012 13:49:11 GMT -6
The aging technique is simple. You don't put them in the acid, you suspend them above and the fumes do all the work. I used a large yogart container and put the lid on so I don't have to breath in the fumes. Start at just a few minutes.
Needs to be nickel.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2012 13:54:58 GMT -6
Yes I have seen the technique before. But they used battery acid for the aging. I think your way sounds better. EB
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Post by chezvoz on May 1, 2012 12:34:51 GMT -6
Below is the original wiring for a Gretsch Country Gentleman, which is what I believe this Crown is based on. All the control holes are in the correct places. So here is a question for those of you who understand wiring better than I do: Does having the master volume upstream of the output limit or impede the best tone? It would seem better to have the master vol right at the output, either right before or after the kill switch.
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Post by dnic on May 1, 2012 13:09:13 GMT -6
Looks like that's exactly where it is. Good diagram I'd go with it.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2012 13:09:39 GMT -6
Looking at the diagram, I would say yes to the master volume loosing some tone value. I don't know how much but I feel you would loos some. I also don't know if you would be able to hear the it playing live. I was always told any time you put some kind of a unit like pots, switches and a like, your going to get some lose of frequency ie tone and even some volume drop. I did a test once on a guitar where I hooked up the pickups to the out put jack. No tone or volume. I was surprised how good the sound was without any controls on the guitar itself. so anyway I don't think I would worry too much about it. What you can do is put the switches and pot's on come cardboard and wire everything up and try other ways to see if there is a big difference in tone and volume. EB
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Post by georgetd on May 1, 2012 13:21:21 GMT -6
s drawn, the master volume is down stream of the tone switch. But, the individual volumes are upstream of the tone switch, so changing the pickup volume may have a noticeable effect on the tone of the guitar, more so than changing the master volume.
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Post by chezvoz on May 1, 2012 14:06:16 GMT -6
I just realized that I have not been reading this correctly. Dooh!
So I get the vol thing.
The tone switch is just a typical 3 pos selector used in Les Paul type circuit, right? So it is just bleeding some tone off when the caps are in the circuit.
I have 4 wire mini-humbuckers and have been thinking about using vol that have a push-pull switch to give them a different wiring - either single coil or parallel. Thoughts?
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Post by georgetd on May 1, 2012 15:31:11 GMT -6
The wiring for push-pull pots is a little more complex, and the pots are more expensive. But, if you think you will use the added positions ever, I'd say push pulls pots are worth it.
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