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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2012 18:28:11 GMT -6
If you want them to have a look of age. I think I would paint them with a flat color, then use a little armor all on them to give it just a little sheen. But I would use a little steal wool on them first to give them some scuffing. OR, You can use gloss then scuff them up with steal wool to give them an aged look. These are two ways that I have aged the rings. there are some other ways but these two seem to work out good. I would experiment first to try and out to see if would work out for you. Don't forget to primer before you paint them. EB
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 11, 2012 18:34:26 GMT -6
Thanks, EB
Thats exactly the kind of advice I was looking for, and why I hang out here!
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 10, 2012 17:09:40 GMT -6
I finally got the pick up rings finished and looking decent. I was trying to take EBs advice and use what I had on hand (and I didn't want to buy the industrial size of Amourall they had at the store), so it took me 3 or 4 tries to get something looking decent. I ended up painting it flat black, burnishing that and then using the car polishing compound I used on the body. But in handling the pickups, I pulled the back away from the magnet. It looks like it was glued. Do you think I can use a hot glue gun on this?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2012 17:21:46 GMT -6
I don't see why you couldn't some some hot glue on it. You might try a little epoxy. EB
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Post by georgetd on Apr 10, 2012 21:20:35 GMT -6
Hot glue should work fine. It won't give a super strong hold, but that just means you'll be able to take it apart if you want to later. Epoxy will be more permanent.
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 10, 2012 21:23:29 GMT -6
Here it is with the aged pups mounted. I just soldered the cover on and replaced the pole pieces. Tuners should be here soon. And the wiring will be a challenge for me.
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Post by stratpurist on Apr 11, 2012 6:39:41 GMT -6
pickups look really good. nice work there dan!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2012 10:33:41 GMT -6
Looking good! Since you don't have the "F" holes in your you will need to take one of the pickup off to put you pots and switch back in. I use thin finishing line tied around the pot or switch to get them back in to the holes. Of course this is after I solder things together.
EB
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 11, 2012 16:06:36 GMT -6
I'm going to pull both out, make a template f the body top with cardboard and mount all the components in their proper location too help me wire it correctly. I'll have to de-solder on of the pups before I put it all back in. If I try to wire it will installed, I'm sure to mess up something.
Here's a question: How do you get the nuts tight on the components when you can't hold the back side from turning?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2012 16:20:08 GMT -6
Some pots have a little leg on it to help keep in place. But if yours don't. you can make a leg that can be soldered on. Or you can take some wood or metal and make a long arm that gos in the hole of the pickup opening so that you can wedge it so the pot wont slip when you tighten it up. Or you might get lucky and it will stay in place with out any help. Never happens for me but it might for you! HA! EB
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Apr 12, 2012 4:43:44 GMT -6
Looks like that glue served two purposes; one, to hold the magnet in place; and two, to keep the pickup from vibrating.
I believe craft hot glue would probably work for this job. It is not really hot enough to melt anything inside the pickup -- in my opinion.
A good alternative to hot glue would be Duco cement. You can get it at Walmart and it comes in a green tube. It is a good general purpose cement for pickups, and it also works very well for binding.
Good luck, John
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 15, 2012 13:46:03 GMT -6
I pulled the pups to set up the wiring harness separately so I can trouble shoot easily. I'll hot glue it before I install all the parts, if I can find my glue gun. I pulled the 2 original tone switches. I don't understand the existing wiring here. Shouldn't it be switching the cap in and out of the circuit, so only have 2 wires from the switch. If you can see on the photo, the gray wire looks to be ground and is connected to the center lug with that short white wire. The other 3 wires, 2 white and one red, are twisted together farther down. Can anyone explain that to me? What I think is a capacitor has these markings: ®202M50 but I can find no caps that have that number. There are no other markings. Any ideas?
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Post by georgetd on Apr 15, 2012 17:17:10 GMT -6
I'm seeing 4 wires and a shield in that pic. 2 white unshielded wires looks like they're both connected to ground, they goto the same place. The white shielded wire is input? and red is output. When the switch is open, there is a capacitor in line with the signal. When it's closed, the capacitor is shorted. This should thin out the sound, make it trebely. Why so many things go to ground, I'm not sure.
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Post by chezvoz on Apr 15, 2012 19:33:53 GMT -6
That's right. 3 wires go to ground!
Aren't 2 of these unnecessary?
Perhaps I shouldn't even look at the remains of the original wiring and start fresh with what seems right.
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Post by dnic on Apr 15, 2012 20:34:40 GMT -6
Hard to know what else may be being grounded (out of sight in this pic). You know one wire from a ground elsewhere to the switch and a ground out from the switch to something else.
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