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Post by chezvoz on Feb 27, 2012 16:42:22 GMT -6
The Bigsby is the right kind, but the guitar has no reinforcement on the heel - it is just the thin plywood as the rest of the body. Not only is that not much for screws to grab, the old holes are pretty close to where the new ones will go. I'm just concerned that operating the Bigs might pull a screw out or cause the hole to collapse into the old hole because it is so close. That's why I'm considering adding some wood down there.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2012 16:54:36 GMT -6
Well, if it were me, I would try and get a block of wood in there where you need it. I wonder how hard it would be, to use screws to hold the block in place till the glue dried? Just an idea. But I would be like you. If there is nothing there to support it, then the screws would come loose again and or break out the wood.
Just my thought's! EB
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 5, 2012 19:30:52 GMT -6
The clamping through the pickup hole, using dowels hasn't worked for me. I can't get everything to line up. I'm about to try using the Bigsby mounting screws to hold it while drying.
So here's a question:
Can I put the string ground wire to the aluminum bigsby ( the old chrome tailpiece took the ground wire), or will I need to run the ground to the bridge?
Thanks
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Post by dnic on Mar 5, 2012 20:56:43 GMT -6
Yes to aluminum it's a good conductor. And holding the glued in pieces with the bigsby screws is a great idea.
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 6, 2012 19:41:04 GMT -6
I hooked it up yesterday with the wire to the Bigsby. That's the Bigsby that Stratpurist gave me. Thanks! Last night and today I reinforced the bridge posts. They originally were installed by drilling holes in the top - meaning little support. The posts had a bit of slop in them, which I thought should be corrected. So I did one at a time because I could only get one clamp at a time in the pickup hole and the bridge support blocked the way to put one pice in for both bridge holes. I glued then drilled the first one. When I clamped it it drifted a little, the edge getting close to where the edge of where the hole was to be drilled. Turned out OK, though. I drilled and then glued the second, using the threaded insert to keep the alignment true. Turns out that because of the arched top, the pins now angle out. With a little effort, I got the bridge on at the right height. Notice above and below that the strings are using the farthest outside groove on the bridge. THe strings don't line up well on the bridge if it's not that way. That string groove placement and the string angle seen below worry me. Next: need to exchange some tuners I bought for the correct ones. That will probably take 2 weeks, there and back in the mail.
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Post by stratpurist on Mar 7, 2012 7:50:12 GMT -6
I suppose those extra grooves are on the bridge for a reason, why should it be a problem to use them? and while I like a more extreme string angle on my solid body guitars, not sure if its a problem on a hollow body like this. how's the intonation with this setup? IMHO, the bigsby looks like it belongs on there - as I've said, glad to see it put to use after all of these years in my attic (>40).
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Post by dnic on Mar 7, 2012 8:47:34 GMT -6
I saw a picture of an old trem set up like this just the other day. The string layout was the same and there is nothing wrong with it. The break angle looks OK any less I might worry but it looks good.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2012 10:17:09 GMT -6
Things are looking good! I don't think there is too much to worry about with angle and were the strings are at on the bridge. As long as the action is good, then to me not to worry. You should be able to get the intonation good on it. My guitar I showed you has a free floating bridge, the only way to get it close to intonation is to move the bridge on mine. That Bigsby looks like it was meant to be on there. This is a cool rebuild! EB
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 9, 2012 15:57:46 GMT -6
I bought some pickups with nickel covers for this. I want to age them to try and make everything look age appropriate.
It looks like the covers are soldered on, but my iron isn't melting this stuff. Do they use something with a much higher melting temp than normal solder?
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Post by dnic on Mar 9, 2012 16:14:52 GMT -6
What temp iron? I'm thinking 40 watt needed plus tin the tip so there's fresh hot solder on the iron first. And a little flux if you've got it wouldn't hurt.
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Mar 9, 2012 16:37:49 GMT -6
I don't use a soldering iron to remove covers. I've melted bobbins during frustrating attempts! I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the solder joint and then pry the cover off very carefully.
My technique - John
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 9, 2012 16:44:43 GMT -6
I just tried the cutting method - large box cutter type blade - and it worked. My iron is 40 watts - didn't melt it one bit. Perhaps the mass of metal attached is acting like a huge heat sink.
Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2012 19:37:58 GMT -6
I'm with John on this. I have done a few with melting the solder, but you have to get things pretty hot for it to work. Cutting is the best way. Putting them back on it not that hard. use a little solder on the gun, and most times you can get enough to hold them on. After all they don't need much. But glad you did get them off. If you don't want to try and solder them back on you can always use a little epoxy. That work good too.
EB
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Post by dnic on Mar 9, 2012 21:05:56 GMT -6
After reading this I'm with John too. I'd stay away from the pups with a gun type iron it can mess with the magnets.
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Post by chezvoz on Mar 11, 2012 18:04:12 GMT -6
I just finished making some pickup mounting rings from wood. I want to make them black and to hopefully look like they belong to the guitar. So, what method do you think would be more likely for success - stain and finish, or paint and finish?
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