Same Washburn guitar, different problem.

[ehaataja]

Well, you guys were so helpful with my wiring problems that I thought I would mention a new issue I am having with the same guitar.  I'm going to put your knowledge of paint and finishing to the test.  This isn't the end of world, and I do feel this will resolve itself someday, but the paint is giving me minor problems.  I mentioned this in another thread.  I gave this guitar 2 coats of clear coat, so it is rather thick.  Now, I circled an area of the guitar where the paint gets dull rather quickly.  It almost seems like the clear coat is chemically reacting with the oils in my forearm and making the coating tacky and dull looking again.  I polish and buff it right out.  In fact, I just did that last night, so it's nice a glossy looking right this second.  It was probably 3 or 4 months ago that I painted this thing, and some of you might remember from another thread.  Can clear coat take that long to fully cure?  I took a second picture of the spot where the guitar rests on my pants.  This spot looks kind of bad right now, but it will probably buff right out.   There goes my theory of reacting with chemicals in my skin.  It's still just a little bit gooey, and after several months I would think this would not be the case anymore.  I also took a picture of the clear coat I used.  Have you guys ever run into any similar situations?

Eric

[GuitarAttack Forum]

This is a common problem, particularly when you are mixing different types and brands of paints. Even paints under the same brand (Krylon, for example) and type (Enamel) will react with each other.

Before I paint a guitar I will practice on scrap. It is usually a piece of scrap from the build or a similar type of wood, I will put the filler, wash coats, base coats and final color and clear in the same sequence I will use on the guitar.

The sequence the paint is added to the guitar can also make a difference. For example, you can spray Duplicolor acrylic lacquer and top coat it with MinWax nitro (black can) lacquer. However, putting the acrylic on top of the nitro has caused crinkling and other rough finish problems.

If I am repairing a guitar, I will find a hidden spot under the pickguard or pickup and test for compatibility.

The old trick is to pull a tuner and take a Q-tip with a little acetone on it and just touch it to the finish. If it gets gummy it is most likely nitro lacquer.

John

[ehaataja]

So John (or anyone else who knows about this stuff), do you think this problem will go away in time? I mean, I don't know if any of you guys are chemistry experts, but in your experience, does this go away if I just give it enough time?

I'm not planning on repainting this thing entirely, as it looks quite good, but giving it a different topcoat could happen if necessary. But if the "gummy" thing will go away eventually I'll just wait it out.

[metou]

Apr 29, 2024 11:58:03 GMT -6 ehaataja said:

So John (or anyone else who knows about this stuff), do you think this problem will go away in time? I mean, I don't know if any of you guys are chemistry experts, but in your experience, does this go away if I just give it enough time?

I'm not planning on repainting this thing entirely, as it looks quite good, but giving it a different topcoat could happen if necessary. But if the "gummy" thing will go away eventually I'll just wait it out.

No, it will not dry. I have a guitar I used this on that was done a few years back. Dry to the touch, but not when it sits on something or on a guitar stand. More than likely, you will have to use another product. I am going to strip mine and start all over. Not a fun thing to do, but better than putting up with a finish that is a problem.

[GuitarAttack Forum]

It sounds like there was something on the guitar when you sprayed the clear. I will probably never become completely cured, but I have seen some rare examples.

It may be possible to wet sand down the color coat in the bad area and try again.

If that is the only place it is tacky it might be worth a try before you strip it all and start over.

John

[metou]

A good way to test if the clear is going to give you problems, is lay the guitar on a towel and let it sit overnight. If the towel sticks, then chances are the issue is the clear on the whole guitar.
It will never cure. On hot days or if you play on stage, It will become a problem. It will start to stick in a case and anything that touches it for any period of time.
I think you would be better off to redo the finish. I have had to do this more than once on guitars. It's frustrating, but in the end it will be a better guitar.

[dnic]

The one time I rattle caned a guitar (Mando) really, It stayed soft for a couple years. I had moved and built a house and when I pulled out and tried to buff it, it just pushed the paint around.

Sorry I don't have any remedies other than testing before the project. Which I did but the Mando had a thicker coat than the test.

[ehaataja]

Well, this feedback is definitely not what I wanted to hear, but sometimes reality sucks.  I'll probably just put up with it for now and be careful to not abuse it too much.  I may recoat it someday, but I've got other priorities right now.  I took a picture of the base coat paint.  I really like this color, so it would be a shame to change it.  If anybody knows of a glossy clear coat that is for sure compatible with this and dries nice and hard, let me know.

right above the barcode, it says "7251830 Metallic Cobalt Blue"



And it stops rust.  I wouldn't want my wooden guitar to rust.

[ehaataja]

After a little digging, I found some clear coats that are specifically designed for guitars. I guess this would be a good place to start. Nitrocellulose or something like that.

[metou]

Sometimes you don't need a clear to go over the paint. I think that is where some make a mistake. Some new paints out there were designed to be shinny on their own. All that is need is some good wax.

 But you are on the right trail if you want to use lacquer. But always try it out before you spray it on any project. Not all products play well together. Even if made by the same manufacture.

 When I use paint, I use automotive paints. In my early days I would use non auto paints and always had problems. Rattle cans, can vary from month to month as well. Learned that a long time ago. I wish I could be more positive. But the way that paints and clears are made today, it's hard to find something (without spending a lot of money) that works well. Most of the paints sold today is OK for lawn furniture or other things, but not good for guitars.

 Hope the best for you and your adventure in guitars. It can be a great and frustrating hobby.