|
|
Post by chezvoz on Aug 11, 2017 17:20:53 GMT -6
I know I have many partially finished projects. So I decided to start another!
I need to find a good source for a 2 point pivot bolt and insert for this:
And I could also use some advice about the fit in the neck pocket. It is very tight as it stands, but there is a gap as you can see in the photo. THe pickguard would cover it. So, better to try and shape the cavity for a better fit, or leave it?
pic bbcode
Alos, using the new "add an image function" and loving it!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2017 20:01:08 GMT -6
As far as the bridge... I get most of my parts off of EBay.
The neck looks to me like it's not the right neck for the body. But... It looks like there are no mounting hole for the bridge. So I would look at maybe rerouting the pocket to fit the neck. For me that would be better then trying to fill in the gap.
It would also be better than altering the neck to fit.
I would work out fitting the neck first, then drilling for the bridge. That way you can get the scale set right and have the string line up with the neck better.
EB
|
|
|
|
Post by dnic on Aug 11, 2017 23:53:31 GMT -6
About the neck, what Eddie said. If you fix the neck route it will just push the bridge back a little. And since you plan to use a trem be sure the body is thick enough for the unit you use. Otherwise the block might hang out the back side.Looks like fun.
|
|
|
|
Post by antares on Aug 12, 2017 0:58:25 GMT -6
Dane's right. Some Strat kit bodies are not so thick as they should be. On one of my Strats- a full thickness Schecter Hawaiian Koa one piece body, I routed the back to have the vibrato cover plate sit flush. That surface mounted cover plate annoys me. Result: I had to mill about 80 thou' off the steel block. Of course the *tone* hounds would probably wring their hands in grief at the loss of all that cold rolled steel... Ha!
e&oe...
|
|
|
|
Post by chezvoz on Aug 14, 2017 21:14:20 GMT -6
Seems like the best idea would be to get a router guide for the neck pocket. Otherwise I might over do it. Who uses them and where did you get them?
|
|
|
|
Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Aug 15, 2017 5:54:44 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by dnic on Aug 15, 2017 22:04:12 GMT -6
Yep Stew Mac has a good product. I have purchased a couple of their templates and they are quality. I make most all of my own but for stock stuff it'll be great.
|
|
|
|
Post by chezvoz on Nov 11, 2017 16:52:01 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by dnic on Nov 11, 2017 21:09:50 GMT -6
I like to end up with a .5 template for routing. So I make my first one out of .25 then make others from it out of .5. I like to use the .25 for lay out. You could buy the .25 one for less money, then route some thicker ones from it. I don't have any problem with MDF templates but you can always CA the edge to make them harder if worried. I just came in from the shop making templates for my LPJ build.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2017 22:01:27 GMT -6
yep! what Dane said.
EB
|
|
|
|
Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Nov 13, 2017 13:42:58 GMT -6
What Dane said!
I don't like to hand route the side contours. I prefer setting up the router in a router table. Please be careful -- routers are really scary and you will probably have to route the outside of the body without a guard because of the contour.
I am with Dane on the MDF...I use .25" and .5" to cut out my guitars. The clear templates are good if you have to route around knots and imperfections in the wood.
Finally, please buy a high-quality router bit. A sharp, high-quality bit make a big difference in the quality of the cut.
More to follow,
John
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2017 19:41:26 GMT -6
I agree with John about the bits too. The cheap ones, will get you into trouble. It's better to spend a little more and get better bits. Cheap ones will not only go dull fast but they will get little chips in the blades. That will cause things to happen quick.
I am working on getting a router table. But even with a router table, PLEASE be careful. Anything can happen really fast. The trick in anything that you hold in your hands is to let go if something does go wrong. Never think you can over power a power tool. It's not worth hurting yourself. I was so lucky that I didn't lose my two fingers, after I had a miss hap with the router on a router table. That now has been a few years, but I am still nervous, when I turn on a router.
Don't take anything for garnet.
EB
|
|
|
|
Post by chezvoz on Sept 2, 2018 20:36:06 GMT -6
I improved the fit of the neck in the pocket today. The corners needed a tighter radius was all. SO next, I proceed to install the neck. I then found out why this body was so inexpensive at Guitar Fetish. The holes for the neck screws do not match a standard neck plate. DO I dowled them up. And voila!   While the dowels were drying, I shaped the headstock.  When I went to install the tuners, I learned just how big the pre-drilled holes are. I checked a couple of other necks I got from Asia, and they all seem to be that way. Any other easy solution beside more dowels?  The ferrules just fall out the holes are so large. |
|
|
|
Post by dnic on Sept 2, 2018 23:16:20 GMT -6
If those tuner shafts are .250" then stew mac has conversion bushings that should work. I just got a set 3/8" OD 1/4" ID. Check um out they others sizes as well. I would guess import neck would have 10mm holes.
|
|
|
|
Post by chezvoz on Sept 3, 2018 21:26:28 GMT -6
Thanks for the tip, Dane. I have a question.
If there is nothing but the bushing above and the screws of the tuner body below that are holding the shaft, won't it be difficult to make the shaft sit at a perfect 90 degrees? And therefore keep good tune?
|
|
