jb
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Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Oct 11, 2014 15:27:28 GMT -6
Hey John , dnic thanks for the reply. john that website was very helpful i use his trick to install the bridge and tail . To anyone thinking about these kits with the four inserts to be installed you may want to get the ones with the holes drilled . I've done two saga's before so have some experence but trying to get those holes in the right spot was hard to say the least . Well anyway i got the bridge one in good the bridge drop right on the posts,but the tail was off so i had to file the inside a little to get it to fit. I use that website for the tail distance i think i should have went a little farther back like dnic said o well see what you guys think? I strung it up with the cheap strings that came with it for now, had to release the neck rod a little. I used titebond on the plastic nut it fell off ; whats better to hold plastic nut there?Feel free to comment . Does the bridge placement look ok? its 25.5 at high e and 25.75 to 25.8 at low e !!!! Attachments:
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 11, 2014 17:27:58 GMT -6
Very cool...I think it will work! Looks like the string spacing is right on the neck.
I use a couple of drops of Titebond on the fingerboard side of the nut. I don't recommend super glue on the nut. I've had to grind them out before!
Play it for a while and see how it works before you put a finish on the guitar.
John
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jb
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Oct 12, 2014 11:20:56 GMT -6
Well got a little more done tweeked the neck alittle ,cut out the pick guard around the bridge, temp install the bridge pickup wired it direct and taped on the pick guard so i cut fire it up . Sounds ok with the cheap strings and the cheap pickup. Still have to get some real strings and do a complete setup . Nuts glued in good. A friend stopped by to jam and he gave me a free case of paint (black) laquer got flat and glossy so who knows this thing my be blk??? He likes the way it plays. I plan on changing the pickup to a JB or one of the Guitar attack ones??? Attachments:
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2014 13:21:16 GMT -6
Looking really good. Can't go wrong with the guitar attack pickups. John can make them to the way you like them. EB
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Post by dnic on Oct 12, 2014 16:19:01 GMT -6
Lookn good, I use a drop of titebond on the nut but it has to be set good or string pressure may pull it sideways. 1/4" offset on the bridge will work fine.
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Post by hoz on Oct 16, 2014 7:33:37 GMT -6
temp install the bridge pickup wired it direct and taped on the pick guard so i cut fire it up . Be careful about those temp pickup tape jobs. I have an old Harmony H19 that has 2 pickups taped on for over 5 years. The V is looking good. It'll be a Rocker!
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jb
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Oct 19, 2014 8:53:59 GMT -6
Finally broke it down for sanding , sanding sealer ,and primer ,paint. I forgot about the ground wire to the bridge so i used my dremel to cut a little slot so i could wrap the wire to the bridge . Thank goodness the pick guard covers this!!! Well see u later thanks!!!!
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jb
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Oct 20, 2014 16:11:51 GMT -6
Got some sealer and primer on it ,drying out
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Post by dnic on Oct 20, 2014 21:10:36 GMT -6
This is cool, I might need to build a pointy guitar
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jb
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Oct 22, 2014 10:48:48 GMT -6
Well i choose to use gloss black might have been a mistake this body wood shows a lot of flaws even after a couple of coats of primer and sealer. Used this new stuff by rustolem paint and primer in one, enamel not a bad product. I would of been sanding for days if i used the laquer this wood was not worth it . More to follow!!!!!
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 22, 2014 16:11:27 GMT -6
Gloss black paint can be tough to get "defect-free". You can always strip it and try again...we've all been there!
John
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2014 17:17:32 GMT -6
I have done a lot of do overs. But I find when using a dark color... For me I paint, then I'll sand back. Then add more paint and so on. Until I get the look I want. Enamel paint is a little hard to do the sand and paint trick. But it can be done. An other thing I learned is before paint or primer, take a steam iron and steam out any dings or ding like lines. That way the wood will be flat. But even after painting if there some spots that still show a scratch under the paint you can always drop fill the spots and and sand out and buff. well, anyway these are a few tricks I have learned over the years. But it's really how much time anyone wants to spend on a build, and what the guitar is built for. Or even who it's being built for. EB
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Post by dnic on Oct 23, 2014 8:27:21 GMT -6
A solid color need not be stripped to be fixed. You need to fill the low spots. Drop fill as Eddie suggests for small defects or any hard drying wood filler or even epoxy for larger defects. Level sand after the fills and repaint.
I like the black a lot, done right it will be killer. Eddie makes a valid point in "how will the guitar be used?" Me I like everything coming out of my shop to be perfect but if this is going to be a gigging guitar it will get beat up soon enough.
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jb
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by jb on Nov 23, 2014 7:29:05 GMT -6
So this is the finial installment in the flying v build. I got a offer on it so its sold and i put the $ toward a new amp DSL100H and cabinet(see mx412 post). I think i liked the build part better that playing it. The new owner loves it so its all good in the end. I managed to buff out 90 % of the flaws in the finish. The more of these guitars i build the more i learn so i planning a tele build in the future! Well gotta go break in the new amp head Thanks John and everyone for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by dnic on Nov 23, 2014 8:37:54 GMT -6
Cool beans
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