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Post by dnic on Jul 12, 2014 12:33:42 GMT -6
Gig tonight. It's been so long since we played a show we should call it reunion. I too love to get out and play.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2014 15:55:34 GMT -6
We jammed here at the house. It was so much fun.
Well, I was going to go do some work on this project. I needed to get a new blade for my table saw. So I went and did that, only to find out my table saw fence got broke somehow... So Now I just ordered the part so I can fix my fence. I was going to buy a New fence until I seen the price for the one that came with the saw. Man I could almost buy another table saw... Will to me the part was not cheap. But I want it fix right... So there went my money for the parts for this guitar. If it's not one thing it's another.... Really bummed me out. So once again this build is on hold.
EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2014 13:04:10 GMT -6
OK got a little done so far today. Starting off with showing my wood vice I just got at the flea market the other day. It worked out great for routing the truss rod channel. Here is the router being set up. I use a side guide to help cut the channel. Here is were I marked out for the rout. This is the kind of truss rods I use. they are two way. I get them off eBay 5 at time. these work really good. and they are not as thick as the ones you get from Stew Mac. So you can make the neck almost as thin as you want. Here is the truss rod installed. Please make note, that I cut the channel in 3 steps. In other word I cut the channel 3 times, each time going a little deeper. My router has a stop on the depth so I wont go too deep. I lay the truss rod on the router and adjust how deep I want it to go. My last step in this is changing the router bit to a little bigger one and resting the depth for the adjustment part of the truss rod. I have the fret board in place.(without gluing) to check to see if I routed enough for the allen wrench. OK that's it for today... That vice I picked up I got for 10 dollars, I thought that was a good deal. I don't think it was ever used. I had to clean it up a little, but it sure was handy for routing the truss rod channel. Before I got the vice I was clamping neck blanks to my table saw. The bad thing about that is keeping the clamps out of the of the router. I also like to use my vacuum while doing any kind of routing. It helps keep the saw dust out the rout and helps you to see were you are going while routing. I also test things out to make sure I have the depth set right, and to make sure things are centered up. OK... I'll post more as I get more done. The next steps will be.... start ruff cutting the neck and gluing on the wings.... who knows what I'll do after that... HA! EB
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Post by dnic on Jul 21, 2014 18:58:40 GMT -6
Cool Eddie, what's your truss rod source? I'm still not 100% ok with the Stew or LMI. I like the Grizzly but it's a tad deeper than I like.
I still need a vice, somehow I managed to work around it but it would be nice to have one.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2014 19:19:26 GMT -6
Dane, here is the link www.ebay.com/sch/hildrethja/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=I have been buying form these guys since they first got on eBay. They are really great people. They have all kinds of stuff. But they do have the truss rods of different lengths. I use 18" ones. Or just under. LOL... they sell them as one or 5, 10 and think 20 bundles. I have never had a problem with them. The last 5 I bought even came with the wrenches. So you might buy one just to see if you like them or not. They also sell me ones that have a defect in them, Like the coating is not at a 100% so they sell them to me for a really good price. But they are fine other wise. Yeah, when I was at the flea market the other day I seen that vice asked him what he wanted for it he said 10 dollars. Heck I didn't even try to make him come down in his price. I thought that was a good price. Most of the ones I see they want a lot more for. But I like it a lot! Think it's going to be yet another favorite tool in the shop. EB EB
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Post by dnic on Jul 22, 2014 8:51:56 GMT -6
Thanks for the link Eddie I'll check out.
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Post by dnic on Jul 22, 2014 9:19:27 GMT -6
The rods look like something that would work for me. Look a lot like the Grizzly rods. Also, looks like a good resource overall. Thanks again gorgeous the link.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 10:57:54 GMT -6
You are welcome Dane. I buy a lot of parts from them... Like I said they are cool people. You can also call them and order things direct. I have done that a couple of times. Eddie
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 14:31:44 GMT -6
OK I got a little bit more done today. I sanded the radius on to the fret board. I don't have the pictures loaded onto my computer yet. So I'll be posting them later on. I am trying to decide if I want to put in lay in the fret board or not. I have so many ideas running through my head, I'm starting to get frustrated so I'm going to let lay for a day or two. something will jive sooner or later.
I like to radius the fret board before I put in lays in. I have done them with the fret board flat. But I think it works out better to radius first, then do the inlays. But that is what works for me.
So really that's all I got done. That was enough to send my pain levels over the top. So I am pretty much done for the day.
EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2014 18:12:51 GMT -6
OK here are some pictures... I use two sided tape to hold the fret board down to my table saw table. I then mark with pencil on top of the fret board. This is a guide for sanding. Once the marks are gone then I am done with the radius. I use a 12" radius block on all of my builds. I use contact spray to hold the sandpaper to the block. On this picture I was trying to show how it look while sanding. The marks are slowly fading away. OK I did get a little more done. When building a neck through you have to keep on thinking. One of the things I for got to do was make a channel for the wire for the switch. So what I did first was drill a hole were the switch should be. here I went ahead and made the rout for the switch. I didn't go too deep, because I am still planing on doing a carve top. I wen deep enough so I can drill the channel I need. This is what you need to drill channels with a really long drill bit. So here I am drilling the hole. If had been thinking... before I glued on the top I could have made the channel first. But this will also work out too. the lower wing should be OK because of the chamber that is in the body wing. More later on! EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 14:00:10 GMT -6
OK here we go.... Today I got the neck ruffed in. Looks like I have enough left over to make yet another guitar. Cool!!! I cut the neck a little proud of the wings. I am going to do a carve top and once I am done the extra wood will be gone. This is also done this way to allow for any shifting of the wings being glued on. After I did this I am now convinced that for me I would not want to try a one piece guitar. This is the first time I have cut an angle in this way. It was really hard on me to handle just this. It would really mess me up to work on a one piece. Maybe if I were younger I would try one. But the way things are going with me I know I could not get through a one piece. So now the next step is to attach the wings. Once the wings are on and the top is carved out, I'll be gluing on the fret board. Once I get that far I'll go from there. EB
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Post by antares on Jul 23, 2014 15:42:54 GMT -6
Lovely job so far Eddie, and very informative too.
My Firebird "wings" are joined onto the neck-through with a diagonal or diamond like tongue and groove each side. I don't know whether that description makes sense, but it means that the joints with the wings cannot move. I have a "MightyMite two piece ash Strat body that after many years has begun to part company along the joint line behind the bridge this is visible through the paintwork. Is such a keyed joining splice something you have considered or are you going to deploy a straight butt joint ? Really enjoying this one. e&oe
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 16:27:01 GMT -6
Have now built 5 neck though guitar this one will my 6th. So far I have had no problems with them coming apart. But yes I have seen other builders use tongue and groove on body's. I have also seen others that will put in a wooden dowel in. Even see one guy use metal dowels, (I think that was an over kill)
I may put the dowel in it. Not sure yet. I have made tables for my house that's all I did was butt them together with glue. table is now 6 years old and we moved here AZ for FL about 4 years ago and it still looks the same as the day I finished it. I was a little worried about it, coming form a wet state to a dry one. But it have hasn't changed at all.
So... I don't want to over think it too much. But I do see your point in long time use, will it come apart? Hum... really can't say only because of my other builds. They were all butt jointed. The oldest one I made in FL and is holding up. So I think that one is now 6 or 7 years old.
But I have found on some factory glue ups, sometimes their glue ups are not all that good. I have had some factory made body start to separate. I think that is why even a scarf joint form the factory's fail. They don't always do a good glue up in the start, or maybe they clamp down on the joints that squeezes out too much glue... I really don't know.
To help keep the wings in place while glue up, I will be using staples, to help keep them from moving around too much, while they are being clamped up.
I have more problems with wood cracking than anything else here in AZ. I live above 5100 feet above sea level. In the summer we get hot, and winter we get cold and snow.
I have also lost two laminated neck blanks while here in AZ. do to wood twisting and bowing.
Go figure... I thought I would have had more problems in FL were it's wet all the time. Boy was i wrong... HA!
EB
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Post by dnic on Jul 23, 2014 18:00:33 GMT -6
From the wood working point of view it has long been accepted that a good edge to edge joint is stronger than the wood itself. T&G or dowels are primarily for alignment purposes. Can't argue the point at all that a T&G or routered glue joint will add glue surface but it's over kill in IMHO. A dowel pin is used most commonly in straight grain to end grain joint, think cabinet face frame 90 degree, which are very weak with only glue.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 19:10:19 GMT -6
Thanks Dane for the info! EB
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