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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2011 18:19:17 GMT -6
Well, this is the first one I have done with this big of a chamber. I have done others but I did them only on the wings and left the center going all the way through. I do not expect any problems. The maple I used is vary stable. Now there are some spalted maple tops you do have to watch out for for the reason you mentioned. This is one reason I used a different top than what I was going to use. The other top is softer not as hard as the one on it now. But this guitar body is not as big as a ES335 and it is a little smaller than a real LP. The top wood is just a little over 1/4 inch thick. I do not recommend going any thinner for a chambered body of any kind. But time will tell, but like I said I don't think there should be a problem. EB
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2011 21:55:31 GMT -6
Well, here she is out of the clamps and ruffed in. I did get the body finalized as far as cleaning up the sides and some sanding of top. back, and sides. I'll some more pictures up tomorrow. I did get some more done on the neck. Still trying to decide on the neck joint. After sanding and doing some scraping, the seam is really good on this. I am also thinking of doing some binding on this. Well, so far so good, this guitar is lite and could be the lightest guitar I have built yet and because of my bad neck that is a good thing. HA! EB
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Post by dnic on Sept 16, 2011 8:41:37 GMT -6
If the pain is gone is the neck still bad? Guitar's coming along nicely. Are you doing a natural finish or throwing some color at it?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2011 9:24:08 GMT -6
Yes the neck is still bad. The last two days it has really been bothering me, but I think a lot of it was from all the routing I did on this.
I am going to go with Natural finish on the front. The back I am thinking of staining it a dark color. I am also thinking of green bindings, but I am also thinking of maybe red binding. I may order both so I can see what the bindings look like next to the wood.
Do you think CA20 would work on holding the bindings in or should I use something else? The last binding I did I made out of wood and used wood glue to hold it in. EB
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Post by dnic on Sept 16, 2011 12:31:29 GMT -6
I've had good results with ca. Usually use ca in tight spots and, I think it's #16 plastic cement I got from Stew for the main parts. If you don't mind gluing your fingers you can use #10 ca. Wet the wood a little and pull the binding tight then glue a little away from where you are holding it. It will wick in and hold the binding very well. Oh and go easy on the stuff the hurts you.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2011 9:27:19 GMT -6
Thanks Dane for the info. Yesterday I redid my shop to give me more room. (garage) It was getting to where our car was getting squeezed out. So for me that was no easy task. I have to move things a little at a time, it wound up taking me all day to get it done, but I got it done. So I didn't get anything done on this build, I might try and do some on it today but it may not happen. I have someone coming over for an interview. I am going to try and put together some kind of a band. I decided to try and make some money by playing music. I am tired of have no income at all and no one want to higher me because of one thing or another, so why not do something I love to do. I'll be starting out as a duet then adding people as we get the gigs. Well, anyway I'll see how it goes. EB
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Post by dnic on Sept 17, 2011 17:47:36 GMT -6
Sounds like fun getting back to gigging. I've got a show tonight but we never get paid because we play ministry gigs if you know what I mean. I have gotten paid for travel in the past but that's about it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2011 15:11:03 GMT -6
Sounds like fun getting back to gigging. I've got a show tonight but we never get paid because we play ministry gigs if you know what I mean. I have gotten paid for travel in the past but that's about it. I did that a lot in the past,(playing for free) But this time around I am going to try and make some money with it. I have been playing almost all my life and now that I can't seem to find a job, I thought I would give this a try and see what happens. I'm not looking to become famous I just want to make money at something I love to do, and that's making music! I have also started teaching how to play the guitar. So I'll see how that goes too. I teach two ways, I teach how to read music or I can teach them how to play a song or both, I guess that's 3 ways. But any how it's fun. EB
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2011 21:46:17 GMT -6
Well, I got sick so this will have to wait till I'm better. Plus the wife is having an OP on Wednesday.
EB
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2011 23:21:19 GMT -6
I ordered the bindings for this build, should be here sometime next week. I also hope to get back on this build soon.
EB
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2011 15:37:07 GMT -6
Today I got the fret board put into place,and did some carving on the head stock.
I decided to go with a full neck heal into the body instead of the Gibson still one. I should have some pictures latter on. EB
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2011 16:27:38 GMT -6
Someone once asked me how many clamps does it take to glue on a fret board? It takes this many! HA! If you ever glued on a fret board you know how hard it is to do. My trick I do is I use staples. I use my staple gun and I put one staple at each end on opposite sides. I then cut the top of the staple off and remove one the staple legs so that there is only one sticking up and each end. Then I pre fit the fret board and press on it to get the staple to put it's mark in the wood. This I apply wood glue. Be careful that you don't rub your finger over the staples, it will cut you. Please don't ask me how I know. The staples keep the fret board from sliding around. Here is the heal I am going with on this build. If you look at the picture you can see where I had drawn out the other type one can use. I went with the bigger one of the two because... 1 it is easier to cut, and 2 because it is easier! HA! just seeing if you reading this. OK, after many hours of thinking about the head stock design, I went ahead and used the open book design. I know It's so over done but such is life. I also drilled some pilot holes for the tuners. I did not drill it out for tuners yet simply because I have none for this build yet. I like to have the tuners before I drill them out. Not all manufactures are the same. And again don't ask me how I found this out! HA! ;D EB
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Post by dnic on Sept 24, 2011 18:00:15 GMT -6
So why is it easier to cut? And then easier to cut? I usually cut it to a radius of sanding drum that I have. Now I have about 5 different sizes so I can be more creative.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2011 18:27:28 GMT -6
Well... it just is!!! HA!
The old stile you have to not only cut the tang, but worry about how the neck and body join. If you lay the neck back (like LP's) for me it's harder to line everything up and take a little more time to do. With the neck being the same size as the fret board, you don't have as many cuts to worry about, and lining up with the body is... well easier. The only draw back on doing a neck like this, is in the carving of the neck. With the old stile you don't get wood showing through like you do with the newer design. But It's all good! it's up to the builder and how they want to do a set neck. I have done both and for me the one I chose is well... Easier! HA!
Oh and custom guitars are never the same! Sanders always see to that! HA! EB
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Post by dnic on Sept 25, 2011 18:37:32 GMT -6
I thought you were just talking about the heel where the neck blends into the the block. Not what kind of set you are using. I really like the PRS style set you end up with a lot more glue surface and could still blend the the body and heel to some degree. But the Gibson type hides all of the body cuts so it could get real ugly in there and no one could tell. Of course ugly is not what good glue joints are made of.
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