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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2009 17:30:16 GMT -6
hey all! most of you know I am kind of new at wood working. So I am learning all kinds of stuff for the fist time. I have a question about table saws. I just had someone give me an old craftsman 10" table saw. Is there anything I should be aware of before I use it? I know it needs a new blade...What kind of blade should I get? I was looking at them the other day and I didn't know there were so many to choose from. So any help form you old timers would help me a lot! Thanks! 
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Post by cknowles on Jun 16, 2009 6:00:21 GMT -6
I've been using a 10 inch 40 tooth carbide tipped "combination" blade for the past 20 years without any issues. It cuts an edge clean enough for edge joining. A "combination" blade is a compromise in that it attempts to do everything well. For most of what I do it is perfectly acceptable. You can identify a combination blade by the gap between each group of teeth.  Before you fire it up for the first time, see if you can clean all of the dust out of the inside. Make sure there is no build up on the blade tilt and height adjustment screws. I also recommend making sure that you have sufficient wiring to handle the load that a saw will require. Plug the saw in and power it up. If it seems to spin slowly before it hits full speed, you're wiring may need to be upgraded. I use 12 gauge wire for my table saw circuit. In my previous house the circuit was 14 gauge and the saw took several seconds to spin up. I also needed to install slow blow fuses in order to accommodate the extra power draw during start up. Hope this helps Chris |
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Post by dnic on Jun 16, 2009 11:05:36 GMT -6
I have had a cabinet shop for years and so I have blades for every occasion. Typically I use a 20 tooth rip for solid lumber. Ripping is cutting with the length of the grain. Cutting refers to cuts across the grain, or cross cutting. May be redundant but I thought I would explain the terms. For ripping or cutting plywood I use a forty to sixty tooth blade. I also crosscut solid wood with a forty tooth. I said all that to say that Chris is totally right about the combo blade if you are looking to buy one blade that's the one. d  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2009 16:48:03 GMT -6
Hey thanks for the input! I was at Loews the other day and was trying to find a blade. But when I seen all the different kinds I got lost in it. The prices were from 35 to around 95 dollars. Some had two blades in a pack. So I came here hopping to have you guys shed some light on it. I use a combo blade on my little circular saw but I never thought of ripping or cutting. I have only used it to cut 2X4s and ply wood. I'll probably have some other questions later on. Thanks again for all the help!
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Post by cknowles on Jun 17, 2009 7:53:16 GMT -6
You tend to get what you pay for in a saw blade.
My combo blade was the best blade that Sears sold at the time. I paid $75 for it (50% off sale) and have used it for 20 years. It now could do with a sharpening as I am just starting to get some tear out.
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2009 12:18:31 GMT -6
Yeah I find that I a lot of things. You get what you pay for type of thing. In most cases!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2009 17:35:10 GMT -6
Hey can I use the combo blade to cut wood for laminating wood together? Or do I still need a joiner to do that? I know my son has used a table saw to make cutting boards for the kitchen but I didn't know if you can do that for making necks and body's for a guitar. Will a table saw cut true enough I guess is what I am asking. Thanks again!
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Post by cknowles on Jun 17, 2009 20:10:54 GMT -6
With a good blade a table saw can cut true enough. Mine does.  Chris |
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Post by dnic on Jun 17, 2009 23:36:42 GMT -6
I will always joint an edge because I have a jointer but a satisfactory joint can be made with a good table saw and blade set up. Keep a steady pressure on the board as you rip it and keep it against the fence. This assumes that the saw is set up properly. d |
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Post by cknowles on Jun 18, 2009 6:30:06 GMT -6
Amen to that dane, a well tuned table saw is a pleasure to work with, a poorly tuned saw may bite you!
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2009 9:01:38 GMT -6
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Post by cknowles on Jun 18, 2009 12:03:04 GMT -6
What a character!
He is spot on all the way through.
Chris
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Post by dnic on Jun 18, 2009 14:44:41 GMT -6
yup, The guy in the video is right on. Only thing I would do different is to raise the blade higher when setting the run out or parallel to the fence. That would give you a better reading over a longer distance. 10" to about the 5" he had above the table. The logic is the same as using the longest straight edge or level possible for the job. It's just more accurate. And by the way the blade pictured in Chris' pic, the Freud is a very good blade. Good router bits to. Stay away from VA and B&D. d |
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Mach Twang
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
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Post by Mach Twang on Jun 18, 2009 15:33:22 GMT -6
Wish I had a table saw....... I'm keeping my eye on Craigslist for the right one to pop out. And that means FREE and in my neck of the woods. I'd really like one of those StopSaws like Chuck is using to demo on. Boy Howdy those are cool!! No lost fingers!! Growing up with a father that chopped off fingers in a sheet metal sheer before I was born, I saw first hand what a pain in the glutious maximous it is living with less than ten... |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2009 18:13:32 GMT -6
Well, I'm going to pickup the table saw this weekend. I'll see what the over all shape it is in but hey it is free! It's an old heavy table saw (craftsman) and I have to find someone to help me pick it up and bring it home. My wife and daughter has all ready got some projects lined up for me to do. Oh boy here we go!!!
Where can I find a blade like the one you show in the picture?
You feel that would be a good one to start with?
Thanks again for the input!
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