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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 19:21:47 GMT -6
I know the word "Tone" always seems to creep up. But I did some test to this before and after cutting. I did the old tap test. The wood vibrates and rings off a great tone. Both before and after ruff cut. Both peaces have a great ring tone to them. As well as the wings. So this should be a good ringing guitar once done. EB
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Post by antares on Jul 23, 2014 23:36:27 GMT -6
I have to keep in mind that we are talking wood and guitars here so this is probably largely irrelevant; at work we manufacture galleys for the aerospace industry. We use tongue and groove assembly with the composite boards. OK these are two layers of glass fibre sheet with a hexagonal Nomex core. The assemblies hold together well on a dry fit but that would not be the case without tongue and groove. Over 25 years ago we used to use rivetted angles to hold the job together! To me that's a sound approach but at the same time, I have to agree with Dane's angle on the stength of adhesives. I like to look at extremes knowing that what I see is somewhere along a line between the two. I guess modern adhesives have supplanted old skills like dovetailed joints? As I said, guitars not galleys! Enough of this already; I only asked because I can see the joint on my unfinished Firebird and I thought " what a good idea" Back to Eddie's white LP...
e&oe
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Post by dnic on Jul 24, 2014 8:02:09 GMT -6
The old skills will never be replaced by new adhesives. Hacks of course will use Gorilla glue to fill gaps in joints that shouldn't be there in the first place but craftsmanship is always evident and appreciated. So if a clean straight gap free joint with regular old wood glue is stronger than the wood itself, how much stronger than the wood does it need to be?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2014 10:25:06 GMT -6
I remember the fist time I did a scarf join. Seems we had the same tale back then. To scarf or not to scarf, strong or not strong.... I remember someone telling me that "Oh you need to use inserts in the scarf to make it really strong." Well, I agree that it would make it strong, but you really don't need it that strong. I have not had one brake yet. But it's OK to over think sometimes... I know for me that is how I figure out another way of doing tings. Some ideas work and some don't... So keep the ideas coming... I really don't think there is a right or wrong idea... some are more proven...
EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2014 12:36:08 GMT -6
OK today I went ahead and glued on one of the wings. To help out keeping the wing where I wanted it, I used staples. to use this method, Lay the stapler loos on the wood and put in a staple. then use something to lift the staple up on on end. Use wire cutters and cut it down so that about 1/8th inch of the staple is still in the wood. Once you have done that then press the wing into place. This will make some small hole from the staple in the wing. Once you put glue on both the wing and the neck, you are ready to clamp the wing down. Use caution when gluing up. If you use your fingers like I do, because you can cut yourself on the staples. I do one side at a time. I have found it easier that trying to deal with both side at once. I like easy. I like to use as many claps as I can. There are all kinds of ways to glue the wings on. On some body stiles I reuse the wood that I cut off from the body for clamping the wings on. But on this one I don't think it was necessary. I got really good squeeze out. tow other things I did on this before I glued on the wing. I used my thickness planer and planed down the back side of the wings about a 1/4". I got to thinking about the carve top, and once the top is carved, the top would be closer to the center strip. so I want it to look as even as I can get it. The other thing I did was true up the sides of the neck blank. I used my joiner/planer for that. Like what has been talked about, I wanted to make sure that the wings and the neck blank were good to go. So I'll now let this sit for 24 hours and take off the clamps and glue the other side on. this will be the same proses so I may not show any pictures of it being glued up. But If I deiced to change thing up I will post them pictures. EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 9:28:05 GMT -6
Well, alright.... I went ahead and ordered some inlays for the fret board. They came in the mail, so I will be working on getting them put in to the fret board. I did one... I am trying a new way for me,for putting them in. So far it worked out pretty good.
I'll have some picture up about how or what I did, latter on tonight... So Keep on checking...
EB
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Post by dnic on Jul 26, 2014 11:20:06 GMT -6
We're checking Eddie, I'll wait for the pic to see what kind of inlay.
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Post by latestrummer on Jul 26, 2014 13:14:55 GMT -6
This is a cool build! It's been fun watching it progress .
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 14:00:34 GMT -6
Thanks!
I was just out in the shop for a little while today. I had to put my new parts on my table saw fence. It got broke on the operator side and the no op side. Don't know how it got broke nor does anyone else... But I wound up buying the parts cause the parts were cheaper then a new fence. Can't believe how much a new is little lone the parts.
I did get the other body wing in place and glued and clamped up. I also did some more carving on the fret board for the inlays. Doing the inlays (I have found out) is really hard on me and the pain in my neck. So I have to work on it a little at a time.
this build may be one of my last ones. I am getting to where I can't work on them for long periods of time. 15 to 20 min and I am done for most of the day. But I forced myself to go as long as I could the other day... But when I do that I'm up all night.
OH well... I had guy over last night. Wants me to build him a custom guitar. I told him I would build it, but he would have to understand that it would take me some time to build and I work on guitars when I feel like it. I did tell him about my medical condition and he seemed to under stand and wants me to build him one. So I will see how that goes.
So any way back to the build. I am still planing on doing the carved top on this. But I think on this one I'm not going to put any bindings on it. Thinking of doing a round over instead. I thought it may be too much to put put in the binding because of the cherry stripe on the side. So I thik it would look cool to have like a 3/4 round over on the front and back. What do you all think?
EB
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 16:27:35 GMT -6
Well here is the glue up of the bottom wing. All glued up. Back Front. Please note; I left the neck a little proud of the wings. My thought on this part was to allow for any kind of last minuet adjustments if need be before gluing on the wings. Onto the fret board... The other night when I was up, not being able to sleep... I got to thinking of how I could make it easier to carve out the holes for the inlays. So I came up with hogging out the placement for the inlays. I use my drill press to do this. I set up my drill so it would only go as deep as the inlay are thick. I did test this out before I tried it out on my fret board. It worked great! I then used one of my chisels to cut out the wood I did not need. So far so good! Here is the fret board as it is now. I still have 3 more inlays to go. I had Hoz make me up some decals. they are water slide decals. I really like what he came up with. So I am going to put the decal at the 12th fret, and moving the last 3 inlays down. I wanted to do something different. I will also be putting the LOGO on the head stock. This is my first guitar that will have my new Logos on it. I am planing on oil finishing the neck, so the decal will be under the finish when done. Oh there won't be any white showing on the decal once it's in place. Well that is it for today... Next up is to start thinking up a head stock design. I really don't want to go with the open book stile, would like this one to all mine. a note on doing inlays... there are all kinds of ways of doing inlays. I have used a drumal router, but I find the chisel works just as fast. the secret in using a chisel is keeping it sharp. make an out line cut first, then star chiseling out the holes for the inlays. Take off a little at a time. Do not try and cut too deep, you will end up messing up the fret board. Once the fret board is done, I'm hopping to get started on the carve top. My plan is to do the all the routing for the pickup and drilling for the tone and volume pots and so on. this guitar will have humbuskes in it. am also thinking of putting the string through the body with out a stop piece like most LP's have. I like the look of the string coming through the body. Well, Like I said that is for today. Still a lot for me to think about. I have some design changes I am thinking on, I still have not made up my mind on them yet. What are they? Hum... Sorry I don't want to say at the moment. HA! EB One other thing on finding the center for the inlays on the fret board. If yo go from corner to corner and draw a line from on corner to the other you will find the center for the inlay. so much faster than measuring it out.
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Post by latestrummer on Jul 26, 2014 16:59:32 GMT -6
I like the round over idea, might be too busy other wise
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2014 0:06:10 GMT -6
this is what I am thinking latestrummer. thanks for your input.
EB
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Post by dnic on Jul 27, 2014 7:11:38 GMT -6
I like the look of binding but have never liked playing a bound guitar with the square edge under my arm.
I saw that inlay on the eBay sight you linked me to for the truss rods.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2014 10:16:18 GMT -6
yes the inlays were on there were for a price or best offer. I gave them a best offer and they took it. Got them at a really good price. A lot better price than most of eBay sellers are selling these for. They are nice and thick, not thin like some. this is the first time I used this stile on one of my personal guitars.
I am hopping this will sound really good once done. The guitar as it is now rings off like crazy. I am really excited to get to the point of making music.I
Ar far as the round over goes... I too like the round over feel. But I think it would look better on this build. Plus every little pound I can cut of this will be better for me. Still a long ways to go. It's getting close to the carving time, of body and neck.
EB
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Post by Deus Machina on Jul 27, 2014 16:04:36 GMT -6
Something in my brain is telling me the LP shape would look off without binding, but with that stripe... I may have to see it to get my brain to shut up, but I think you're right on the roundover.
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