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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 2, 2015 20:16:17 GMT -6
All - doing a refin on a very tired 90s SG. Burnt orange metallic...first color coats on. Prep took a lot of time...be careful what you agree to refin! John Attachments:
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Post by dnic on Oct 2, 2015 21:28:58 GMT -6
Prep is a killer especially if you decide to strip the finish first. Looking good John.
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 3, 2015 13:16:30 GMT -6
Thanks, Dane. It was one of those SGs with a flat finish from the factory without grain-filler. It was also pretty banged-up! I had to strip it, fill the grain, and patch a lot of dings.
We do like a challenge!
John
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Post by chezvoz on Oct 3, 2015 14:12:19 GMT -6
Nice metallic finish. I may dare that someday.
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Post by hoz on Oct 5, 2015 6:01:59 GMT -6
Your finish is only as good as your prep job.
This will look killer! Love burnt orange metallic. Is this a nitro finish?
I want to refin my 66' one day. Somebody butchered the body to put humbuckers in place of the p90s, so restoration is out of the question. Pelham blue.
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 5, 2015 20:16:53 GMT -6
Chris - it is nitro...a Chrysler color. Man, it is a lot of work! As you well know, you cannot rush these finishes...it's not like one of those car rebuild shows on TV!
By the way, I had to replace the fingerboard and refret this one, too. A zillion hours in labor!
John
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Post by dnic on Oct 6, 2015 8:35:44 GMT -6
John, what was your method for removing the old fretboard?
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 6, 2015 21:21:11 GMT -6
Dane,
I used a clothes iron to heat the board by the body and worked a thin seam separation knife under the board. Using the knife (a thin spatula), I worked the board up toward the headstock. Because I wasn't trying to save the old board, I got it pretty hot and it came off pretty easily.
You have to be careful not to gouge the neck as you pry the board off! Experience speaks!
John
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2015 10:52:21 GMT -6
I do pretty much the same way. I use the blades out of one of them brake off blade box knife. I put tape on the ends of the blade so I can pull it through. I use the clothes iron for a lot of things in guitar building. The one I use is a steam iron. It comes in handy for getting out dents and dings. Like John says be careful when taking off a fret board. It is a slow proses. Some fret boards seem to come off fast, but then there are those that will fight you all the way. I always wonder what kind of glue they used at the factory, do to the way some fret boards come off. EB
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Post by hoz on Oct 7, 2015 11:33:39 GMT -6
Same here Eddie. My wife has to ask to borrow the cloths iron off me, haha
I usually shield the body and headstock with aluminum foil, taped down. Then heat up the board for over a half hour or more. I use palette knives to separate the board. In the past I've used a wooden handled paint scraper and a hammer in hopes of popping the board off. But this method usually ends poorly. Patients is the key here.
Recently, somebody gave us a Kodak Instamatic Movie light from the 60's. I discovered it puts off 1 million degrees of heat, and used it to get a backbow out of an Epiphone DOT neck. Wear sunglasses! Just another flea market item worth checking into. Complete fire hazard!
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Oct 12, 2015 20:57:09 GMT -6
Agree with Chris...aluminum foil is critical during these repairs.
I use a lot of it when I change pickups in 335-style guitars. I use it to shield the F-holes from soldering iron destruction!
John
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