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Post by brianloco on Sept 24, 2015 19:57:40 GMT -6
Hey all been awhile since I been on here. I have a Squier acoustic that I'm doing some minor repairs on for a friend. I'm replacing the nut and the saddle since they're both broken and cracked, now I'm trying to make it look better than I received it as it's pretty beat up there's some dents in the finish that I'd like to get out they don't seem too deep I was wondering what the best approach would be to fix these. I'm not sure what the type of finish is but I'm thinking its a poly finish. I've been reading up on it and see some people using ca glue to drop fill and then level and then others say to use a damp rag and a soldering iron to lift them. What do u guys think? I also tried buffing on a small spot but it just seemed to melt the finish
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Post by dnic on Sept 24, 2015 22:23:20 GMT -6
If the finish is cracked in the dent the steam method might get you there but if the dents aren't to deep several layers of drop fill ca will work. The finish on production guitars is surprisingly thick so you should have plenty of thickness to level sand the ca into. Watch Dan's videos on spot sanding with strips of paper.
Not sure what you are doing to melt the finish seems like you would have to generate a lot of heat to do that.
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Sept 25, 2015 8:22:04 GMT -6
Concur on the CA glue, Dane. Good call.
I've found more success steaming dents in unfinished wood or with guitars with thin lacquer finishes. Those poly/epoxy finishes don't seem to take steaming very well.
I drop fill with CA glue and wet sand with 400 and 800, then buff.
I encourage all repairers to buy a pawn shop/garage sale guitar to hone your finishing skills. You will be surprised how good thin CA covers a crack when rubbed on with a paper towel....but it takes practice.
John
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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2015 10:31:30 GMT -6
I have used a steam Iron and a damp cloth to get out dings and dents. Soldering iron also works good. But I like the steam iron the best. I also agree with the CA glue. You want it to be higher then the surface. then take a hard back razor and wrap the ends with tape, then use that to help level the CA glue, finish with sanding. Work out really good. If you are using a hand buffer, poly will melt. It does not like a lot of heat. In other words, you cant stand on it too long. Lacquer will burn if you don't keep the buffer moving. I have buffed out a lot of cars and some guitars with hand buffers. Another thing I learned over the years is the type of buffer cloth you use will make a big difference in the way things go while buffing. Also on buffing, before you began it really helps to clean the surface first. I like to use a wax and grease remover before I do any kind of buffing. EB
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