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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 11:15:34 GMT -6
I get all of my truss rods for a eBay supplier. I buy them 5 at a time to get a good deal. They are two way rods. I have never had one fail me yet. They are thinner than the Stew Mac ones. But that being said, I always test them before I put them in. that is just something I do on a lot of things on a build. Guess some of you have pounded that into me from the start. Test everything! LOL! EB
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Post by brianloco on Jul 16, 2015 14:39:22 GMT -6
I'm thinking of using threaded inserts for when I attach the neck has anyone used these before or have any reccomandations on which kind to get. I'm planning on using 1/4-20 machine screws. I've installed the inserts at work before but mostly for repairing holes in metal bars and such that the threads have been destroyed in never used them with wood
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Post by antares on Jul 16, 2015 15:19:32 GMT -6
Do you mean Helicoils? I've used them at work in aluminium blocks too, but I'm not sure of using them in timber though. You've made me think about it though! I think there are commercially available inserts for this purpose? I would rather use UNF than the UNC that you're proposing and also I'd go for number 10 screws because they're ample strong enough for this application. Whatever you go with I think you've made a good call to use some form of inserts.
e&oe...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 16:16:57 GMT -6
I have used the inserts before in guitars. I really didn't like them. I don't see the benefit of using them. But I know some out there will swear by them. Un less you plan on standing on the guitar on stage or running over it with your car... Hum then maybe. LOL!
In fact I still have some of them inserts with screws in my parts bin. Well, that's my two cent's... EB
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Post by brianloco on Jul 16, 2015 17:26:36 GMT -6
Antares not helicoils I use them too at work for aluminum they're somewhat similar but instead of a spring like shape they're almost like a big set screw with the inside threaded all the way through so threads on the od and threads on the id . By the way what do u do for work I work in a plastics thermoforming shop
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Post by dnic on Jul 16, 2015 22:26:29 GMT -6
I have used brass inserts for bolt on necks and I like the idea for someone who might take the neck off often, like a traveling musician. The screws tend to strip out if reinstalled wrong, I won't get into that. And I agree with antares 1/4" is way overboard in size. The same size as the wood screw is good which is about a #10. Or you could do a PRS style set neck it's really not to tough.
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Post by antares on Jul 17, 2015 7:45:53 GMT -6
"Antares not helicoils I use them too at work for aluminum they're somewhat similar but instead of a spring like shape they're almost like a big set screw with the inside threaded all the way through so threads on the od and threads on the id . By the way what do u do for work I work in a plastics thermoforming shop"
I think you're referring to what we know by the commercial name of "Kay-Locks". They are used at competing organisations, but have only just (grudgingly) been written into our company exposition, which is daft because they are quite good. Somewhere, I have a handful of brass 10-32 inserts that are similar to Kay-locks, but they work by flaring out when the screw is driven in. They have several longitudinal slots machined into the threaded part and knurling on the outside to grip the parent material. They would be ideal for this application and if I was confident in being able to lay my hands on them, you would be welcome to have them. I only used them once to make a shelf dowel drilling drill jig out of "Tufnol". (remember Tufnol, or even Jab-rock" / "Jabberock" or whatever it was called?)
I'm on the fence with this one, if you're going to build this guitar to play then follow Leo, but if you're going to tinker with it constantly then go down the engineer's route!
I am qualified as a building services design engineer, but have always been a sheet metal worker and welder. For the last 30 years I have worked in an aviation related company making cabin interior equipment. (galleys) These days I "do" quality control which I find tedious in the extreme, but I have to acknowledge that I'm not getting any younger! I resent my tool cabinets languishing in my garden shed because of some "Lean Manufacturing" disciple's spurious whim. End of CV!
This looks as though it will be another really interesting build. e&oe...
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Post by brianloco on Jul 17, 2015 14:14:56 GMT -6
We make some stuff for cBin interiors mostly covers and raft containers. I hear you on the QC work I have to do some of that myself after the last ten years doing machine setups and repairs/maintenance I've moved up the chain to shop supervisor and now have to watch other people do the jobs I liked to do while I just make sure they're doing what they're supposed to but at least the pay is better even though the headaches bigger
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Post by GuitarAttack Forum on Jul 18, 2015 7:26:22 GMT -6
Here is a good example of inserts and bolts used in guitar construction. This neck joint was used by Fender Japan on their Yngwie and Blackmore Strats. John
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2015 10:02:03 GMT -6
With the truss rod adjustment being at the heal, I can see or understand using this type of anchor mounted screws. EB
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Post by brianloco on Jul 18, 2015 16:10:50 GMT -6
I first read about the inserts on Ed Romans site who although is seems a little opinionated looks like he makes nice guitars and has a whole bunch of reasons on why he builds guitars the way he does I find some of it interesting and some I think may just be selling points but he does sell his stuff for a lot of money so I guess he's doing something right
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Post by brianloco on Jul 19, 2015 10:53:12 GMT -6
Cleaned up the neck joint on the belt saw far as I can tell it looks good
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Post by brianloco on Jul 19, 2015 10:54:34 GMT -6
And I slotted the fingerboard Attachments:
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Post by brianloco on Jul 19, 2015 11:45:44 GMT -6
Here's a question how do you guys cut the neck taper? I was thinking of tracing the neck and headstock off my last build onto a piece of phenolic and then using that as a router template for the neck and fingerboard.
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Post by dnic on Jul 19, 2015 13:06:58 GMT -6
I have a few templates I made for necks and fretboards. Different kinds of necks and nut widths demand the need for several. So for example, if it's a neck thru my template is full size and I band saw then router to size. After the board is glued on the neck I use the neck as the template. I've never understood the idea of gluing the tapered fretboard to a full width neck and then working all excess wood off.
Ed Roman has been a big name for a long time, thus he can pull in large amounts for his builds.
I like the solid rosewood neck very cool.
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