EVH (EBMM Axis) Build

[lawdog89429]

Hi all,  new to the forum.

I have been playing for about 20 years, and in that 20 years I have repaired, customized and hot-rodded my own guitars.  I have always wanted an EBMM Axis, but mortgage, food, electricity, etc had prevented it, lol.  I had lowered my standards and was going to settle for an OLP.  Couldn't come to an agreement on shipping costs with guitar store in Jacksos, MI on one and it slipped through my fingers.  So I thought I might build my own.  After "building" it from parts on "the leading online auction site" I found a "Franken-Axis" would have cost as much as the real McCoy.  Then I discovered kit guitars! Never saw them before, so I jumped in head first. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the wood. The body is 4 pieces!! lol  The maple veneer is actually quite nice and I have finished dyeing the top and wanted to know what y'all thought.

[latestrummer]

The top looks sweet!

[hoz]

What kit is this? So far so good. That is a nice veneer. What do you have in mind for the hardware? Wilkenson bridge?

[lawdog89429]

Feb 13, 2015 13:30:57 GMT -6 hoz said:

What kit is this? So far so good. That is a nice veneer. What do you have in mind for the hardware? Wilkenson bridge?

It's EVH kit from byoguitar.com. It comes with "all necessary hardware to build a complete guitar" aka cheapest Chinese hardware. It's already drilled for the "licensed Floyd Rose patent" bridge. I want a D tuna on it so I'll probably stick with the Floyd Rose.

BTW, I know it's sort of taboo on these forms, but I have used RIT dye for parts sunshine yellow and one part dark brown and 4 ounces of rubbing alcohol for the color.

[Deleted]

Welcome to the forum! Nice looking start.
I just sold on of these for next to nothing about 2 months ago. But looks like you have a great start.
EB

[lawdog89429]

Feb 13, 2015 15:02:43 GMT -6 @eagleblues said:

Welcome to the forum! Nice looking start.
I just sold on of these for next to nothing about 2 months ago. But looks like you have a great start.
EB

Thank you!

I know when I'm done it will not be a music man but will probably still be better than OLP.

Dyeing the top was the first step. And that went well. in my experience, when the first part goes right the rest is a disaster. Hopefully I break my streak.

[dnic]

Cool, looks good so far. Welcome

[GuitarAttack Forum]

RIT dye is legit...used it for a number of projects. It hold its color very well under lacquer.

Cool guitar..thanks for sharing.

John

[lawdog89429]

Feb 13, 2015 21:53:42 GMT -6 GuitarAttack Forum said:

RIT dye is legit...used it for a number of projects. It hold its color very well under lacquer.

Cool guitar..thanks for sharing.

John

Thanks! Feel the wolves of shame backing off now! lol I was apprehensive about saying I used RIT, but the 4:1 Sunshine Yellow and Dark Brown just gave the top the amber look. I mixed it in alcohol hoping to avoid the lifting or bubbling I read about that water can cause.  2 small spots did bubble up when I used a damp cloth to raise the grain up. Honestly, I didn't see or feel much "raise" in that hair-thin veneer. I did the iron on low heat and it flattened right out. The alcohol was a good medium as it didn't soak into the wood and dried really REALLY quick.

[lawdog89429]

Here it is with just the first coat of Tru Oil. I am already amazed at how the grain is just popping out, almost 3D!

[latestrummer]

Wow the tru oil really makes it pop! It gonna look awesome!

[lawdog89429]

Here's a quick update:

Got a few more coats of Tru Oil on, getting a nice buildup. Time to wet sand and assess. Really starting to shine.

 

Near tragedy almost ensued, I was inspecting the headstock when I dropped the heel of the neck onto the body!!!!

By the Power of Grayskull, the "wound" happened where the pickup ring will completely cover it. Thank the maker! (to quote C-3PO)

c

And another hiccup came when I was mounting headstock hardware. The cheapest of the cheapest Chinese steel was obviously used with the tuner screws. One sheared right off while screwing it into the headstock. Not even forcing the threads to cut much into the hard maple and it came right off. Had to drill it out and replace with a "less than matching" hardwood plug.  It's on the back and will be mostly covered by the tuner so not too worried about it. Got the grain to line up pretty close though.  NEVER seen a screw do that. I've used plenty of Chinese hardware too in the past.

And finally, I just had to. Obviously to the even the most untrained eye, this isn't a true Music Man, as the truss rod adjustment is at the top. I see it as a tribute not a counterfeit as I'm not trying to pass it off as the "Real Deal."

[Deleted]

One thing I have learned over the past years of building guitars is... Always use some kind of lubricant on the screws. Maple is on hard wood that is hard to get the screws into. In the start of me making guitars I can't tell you how many times I broke off screws until i learned to use something on the screws. Since I have been doing that. I can only remember braking off one screws in the last 8 or 9 years.The reason it broke off was I didn't the hole deep enough.

I use tung oil. Tru oil looks like is really close to the same. You're build is looking awesome!

EB

[lawdog89429]

Got a bar of soap on standby and marked my drill bits 1mm longer than the screws, thanks EB!

Also thanks for the encouragement. Seeing your Gibson/Fender, that means a lot.

[lawdog89429]

Ok, I am just plain, flipping amazed!! I put about 5 coats of tru-oil on this body.  Two fairly thin (with a cloth), one thick (with fingers), then 1000 grit sanded smooth, then two more paper-thin coats (with fingers).  Figured I'd be buffing and polishing it smooth.  Checked the dried final coat and it was smooth as glass.  I used nu-car polish (the no rubbing, no buffing kind) and look at this!   I never in my wildest dreams thought it would come out like this!