Post by avengers63 on Mar 3, 2010 10:33:44 GMT -6
Here's a down & dirty overview of how to install a truss rod.
This is described for when you're making your own neck. The steps can easily be adapted for when you're doing a full-blown replacement involving removal of the fretboard.
first of all, you want to use a double-action t/r - one that bends both forward & backward. That way the slot can be flat. If it's a single-action, you have to put a recurve into the bottom of the slot. Also, you won't need that fillet over the top of the rod like you tore out of this neck.
Make sure to get a rod that's coated in some type of plastic or rubber. That way the glue won't stick to the rod itself and it will move freely.
Many luthier supply houses sell them. The more well known are Stewart-MacDonald and LMII, but they certainly are not the only ones, nor the least expensive.
A note here about access to the rod. This will depend entirely on the style of rod you have and how you want to access it. it can be at the headstock or heel, and it has no bearing on the functionality. It DOES, however, have a lot of influence on the looks and ease of adjustments. This will all need to be planned out before the channel is routed.
HEEL ACCESS:
NECK ACCESS
When deciding on the placement of the rod, take into account the length, where it will fall under the fretboard, and how much you want sticking out if it's neck-access. This can also determine if you need a truss rod cover or not.
Mark the center-line of the neck blank. This is essential for the placement of the rod. It should be as dead-center as possible.
I'm not going to supply a picture for this one. If you can't figure out how to make a center line without help, then you shouldn't be doing this. Put down the power tools before you maim yourself.
Rout a slot the EXACT width and depth of the rod. Fortunately, every rod I've used thus far is 1/4" wide, so the bit is standard. You can go just a hare deeper than the rod itself, but you don't want to go more than 1/32". It's supposed to be in there tight.
The channel should be as close to the exact length of the rod as you're capable of. This might mean the end of the channel will need to be chiseled out by hand.
If you do this with a hand-held router, make sure you have either an edge-following attachment or a straight-edge secured to the blank so a bearing can follow along. Don't attempt to do it freehand - you can't. The channel needs to be 100% straight, end of story. It can also be done on the router table, but I personally prefer to SEE what I'm doing.
It's entirely likely that the nut will be a different width than the rod itself, or a different height. Plan ahead for this. Think through how it will lay and if separate depths, widths, or other considerations need to be factored into the process. If the nut sits lower than the rod, then a small fillet may need to be glued on top of it to hold it in place.
Test fit the rod several times throughout the process. Take your time, especially on the ends and neck access. Think everything through thoroughly. If it's your first time, do a dry run on some throwaway pine 2x4.
This is described for when you're making your own neck. The steps can easily be adapted for when you're doing a full-blown replacement involving removal of the fretboard.
first of all, you want to use a double-action t/r - one that bends both forward & backward. That way the slot can be flat. If it's a single-action, you have to put a recurve into the bottom of the slot. Also, you won't need that fillet over the top of the rod like you tore out of this neck.
Make sure to get a rod that's coated in some type of plastic or rubber. That way the glue won't stick to the rod itself and it will move freely.
Many luthier supply houses sell them. The more well known are Stewart-MacDonald and LMII, but they certainly are not the only ones, nor the least expensive.
A note here about access to the rod. This will depend entirely on the style of rod you have and how you want to access it. it can be at the headstock or heel, and it has no bearing on the functionality. It DOES, however, have a lot of influence on the looks and ease of adjustments. This will all need to be planned out before the channel is routed.
HEEL ACCESS:
NECK ACCESS
When deciding on the placement of the rod, take into account the length, where it will fall under the fretboard, and how much you want sticking out if it's neck-access. This can also determine if you need a truss rod cover or not.
Mark the center-line of the neck blank. This is essential for the placement of the rod. It should be as dead-center as possible.
I'm not going to supply a picture for this one. If you can't figure out how to make a center line without help, then you shouldn't be doing this. Put down the power tools before you maim yourself.
Rout a slot the EXACT width and depth of the rod. Fortunately, every rod I've used thus far is 1/4" wide, so the bit is standard. You can go just a hare deeper than the rod itself, but you don't want to go more than 1/32". It's supposed to be in there tight.
The channel should be as close to the exact length of the rod as you're capable of. This might mean the end of the channel will need to be chiseled out by hand.
If you do this with a hand-held router, make sure you have either an edge-following attachment or a straight-edge secured to the blank so a bearing can follow along. Don't attempt to do it freehand - you can't. The channel needs to be 100% straight, end of story. It can also be done on the router table, but I personally prefer to SEE what I'm doing.
It's entirely likely that the nut will be a different width than the rod itself, or a different height. Plan ahead for this. Think through how it will lay and if separate depths, widths, or other considerations need to be factored into the process. If the nut sits lower than the rod, then a small fillet may need to be glued on top of it to hold it in place.
Test fit the rod several times throughout the process. Take your time, especially on the ends and neck access. Think everything through thoroughly. If it's your first time, do a dry run on some throwaway pine 2x4.